The Cabot Trail

The first supported, guided tour that Adventure Cycle Experience ran this summer was the Cabot Trail, on northern Cape Breton Island, from July 8th - 13th.  I've seen Cape Breton described as the crown on top of Nova Scotia, and the Cabot Trail as the jewel on that crown.  A bit corny, maybe, but a jewel the Cabot Trail truly is.  During the 6 day tour, a loop starting and finishing in Baddeck, we had nothing but beautiful weather.  Clear skies and sunshine greeted us every day, and made for a stunning background to this amazing scenery.  A much-quoted line from Alexander Graham Bell goes, "I have travelled around the globe.  I have seen the Canadian and American Rockies, the Andes, the Alps and the Highlands of Scotland, but for simple beauty, Cape Breton out rivals them all!".  Now, this seems like quite the boast, and there are those of you out there who may find it hard to believe.  I grew up on the outskirts of the Rockies, and have cycled across them, as well as spending five months cycling the spine of the Andes.  And while direct comparisons are hard, I have to say, Cape Breton is one of the most amazing places I have ever been, and takes your breath away time after time (in more ways than one!).  Stunning beauty meets you around every bend as the highway clings to the coast, climbs over mountains and capes, and follows the river as it winds its way through the highlands.  

The climbs over French and North Mountain both exceed a 13% grade in places (compared with a relatively gentle 8% grade found crossing most passes in the Rockies!), and leave you literally breathless as you slowly make your way up.  We all agreed the climbs were more than worth it as we rocketed down the other side (I personally hit 76 km/h, and almost turned around and climbed back up to try the downhill again, being sure that 80 km/h was well within my reach).  

On the morning of our third day we enjoyed the optional whale-watching tour from Pleasant Bay, where our Zodiac floated alongside Minke and Fin whales, seeing the burst of mist as they came to the surface for a breath.  We were relieved to even sneak in a quick stop at a secluded beach in a hidden cove, unreachable except by boat.  

We detoured off of the Cabot Trail to take the scenic alternative to White Point, where we hiked a short trail past the small fishing harbour to reach the point.  I know that both pictures and words cannot do justice to that place - with the ocean lapping the cliffs below, whales breaching in the distance, bald eagles soaring overhead, and the lowering sun contrasting the deep greens and blues of the grass, trees, and ocean - it was another breathtaking moment, in a completely different way.  

Our tour finished off riding alongside the beautiful Bras d'Or Lake.  (I know it might seem we're overusing the word 'beautiful', but this is just what it is).  Coming in along the lake, we reached the town of Baddeck, and the same waterfront we left from only 5 days before.  The first tour was a great success, with nothing but great reviews on the food, accommodation, and organization.  After enjoying a celebratory ice cream cone in Baddeck, it was unfortunately already time to head back to Halifax.  From here we had one day off, before continuing on to Prince Edward Island for our next tour of the summer, a tip-to-tip camping tour of PEI.  

A more complete photo album of our tour is available both here, and on our Facebook page.  The Cabot Trail is available as both a camping and bed and breakfast tour with Adventure Cycle Experience, with prices starting as low as $1099 for a six day tour.  We'll be running both tours next summer; if you're interested, feel free to contact us at tours@maritimecycletours.com anytime to receive more information, or visit our website at www.maritimecycletours.com!

Grand Manan Island

One destination I had really wanted to visit since moving to New Brunswick was Grand Manan Island.  It's a pretty decent sized island off the south coast, located in the Bay of Fundy.  It's got a bit of everything - craggy cliffs, lighthouses, rare birds, smooth pavement, incredibly friendly locals, fresh seafood from hidden harbours, and a certain air of mystery to the place.  It's completely off of most tourist's radars, which is a shame for them, but a bonus for those who do venture across on the 90 minute ferry ride.  

I cycled the island as a preview to our Fundy Isles tour, going tip-to-tip with a night of camping in between.  After my incredible sunburn the day before, the fog and mist that greeted me were a very welcome treat - I hoped for some good moisturizing action from the sea air.  But before getting too far into the island, I made a stop at the famed North Head bakery - it's amazing the quality of baguette available on this rocky island… and the cinnamon bun really hit the spot as well.  Despite the fog, drizzle, and headwind, the biking was still enjoyable as the road skirted the coastline.  (That's how you know you found a good cycling destination).  Each of the small fishing villages had a unique vibe to them - they seemed self-assured, with a look of clean prosperity.  

While drivers in New Brunswick seem to all be pretty respectful of cyclists, on Grand Manan they took it to new levels.  Slowing down completely, while passing in the opposite lane, waiting for the road to straighten before passing, and smiles and waves from nearly ever vehicle made me feel as if the entire island had been expecting my visit.  They say small fishing villages are where you meet the friendliest people, and it seemed to hold true.  I stopped in Seal Cove for a hot chocolate, and inside the small shop was only the owner.  He had a few tables and chairs set up by the windows, and the biggest cribbage board I've ever seen.  It was an entire table.  I poured my hot chocolate and started sipping, and he invited me to a game.  "Are you a gambler?" he asked.  Usually they play for $2 a game, but as my pockets were empty I decided to just play for fun.  As I rounded the final bend and he was 20 points behind me, I wished I had gone out to my bike to find a toonie.  I held on for the win, and he invited me back for a re-match the next time I passed through.  

After reaching the southern tip of the island, and then camping for the night at The Anchorage Provincial Park, I made my way back up to North Head, and visited the extremely photogenic Swallowtail Lighthouse, perched on a rocky outcropping.  I had really been hoping for some sun to capture the beautiful lighthouse, but even in the fog I couldn't stop snapping photos - it really was just so iconic 'Maritimes'.  Finally I put my camera away, and rode back to the ferry terminal.  From here it was just a short jaunt up past Blacks Harbour to the highway, and sunny skies led me the rest of the way back to St. Stephen.  

All in all, the Fundy Isles were a fantastic area to explore by bike.  Even on the days without great weather, the combination of classic Maritime scenery, considerate traffic on lightly travelled rural roads, and incredibly friendly people made for a great bike trip.  If anybody's interested in taking part in a supported, guided tour of the Fundy Isles, we'll be offering a tour this July, from the 22nd to 26th.  It's a five day camping tour, with an average length day of 50 km - great for novice cyclists.  And best of all, it's our most affordable tour, available for as low as $899 with Bicycles for Humanity fundraising, and $799 for students and teachers!  For more information, visit the Fundy Isles page on our website, or send us an email, at tours@maritimecycletours.com.  

The Fundy Isles - St. Stephen to Deer Island

I had a few free days last weekend, so I decided to pull out my good old Cannondale, and dust off the tent, sleeping bag and panniers that had spent the winter cooped up the closet.  It was time to make the most of some sunny May days.  One area of New Brunswick I wanted to explore a bit is the coastal area of Charlotte County, home of the tranquil, relaxed, and beautiful Fundy Isles.  I'd follow a route similar to what our Fundy Isles tour follows, except try to do double the miles each day - my first day on the road I'd cover what our Fundy Isles tour covers on days one and two combined. Because you know, after spending the winter sitting indoors, I thought my legs would be well rested.  

I drove down to the friendly town of St. Stephen, and after parking the van and loading up my bike, I set off.  I hadn't ridden with panniers yet this year, but it didn't take me too long to adjust to the added weight.  And in fact, it didn't take long at all to get into that old touring rhythm, comfortably cranking out the kilometres, while stopping for photos, water, and snacks as often as I liked.  The sun was bright, the shoulder was wide, and I think the only thing that temporarily wiped the smile off my face were the bugs that occasionally peppered my face.  I followed Highway 172, rounding Oak Bay, and followed the St. Croix river down to the resort town of St. Andrews by-the-Sea.  The town seems to come alive in the summertime, and with the farmers market serving fresh lunch, Water Street buzzed with activity.  I sat on a bench overlooking the wharf, enjoying the mix of cool breeze and hot sunshine on my skin.  

This is where the first day of our Fundy Isles tour ends, but I decided to go on, and follow the route for day number two, heading north from St. Andrews through the undulating hills back to Highway 1, and over to St. George.  The short, steep climbs and short, steep descents made for some fun top speeds (on the way down at least - some very slow speeds on the way up), but somehow the miles just disappeared, and I found myself in St. George.  I got off my bike for a short break at First Falls, the historic waterfalls in town, when I noticed for the first time that day just how red my arms were becoming.  I seemed to have forgotten sunscreen, and after buying a bottle and applying it, I hoped I caught it in time.  (I didn't.  Not even close).

From St. George it's possible to follow the very quiet Mascarene Road to the Deer Island ferry, which is a beautiful little ride.  The trees were full and green, the grass vibrant and alive with colour, and it seemed that beautiful little views of the water kept popping up as you went round a bend.  The hills are just perfect - enough to make you work a little to get up, and enjoy going down, all while hiding another great little view behind it.  After taking the ferry across to Deer Island, the road continues in a similar manner - this time the climbs were a bit steeper, but just as rewarding, with hidden coves and fishing villages tucked away beside the road.  Traffic was light, the buildings historic, and the smell of the ocean in the air.  After a bit of exploring, I ended the day having cycled exactly 99 km, and found myself a campsite at Deer Island Point campground, overlooking the southern tip of the island.  As the sun set and I ate my supper, I couldn't help but be pretty pleased with the day.  The scenery was great, the traffic was wonderful, and my legs felt pretty darn good.  I guess the winter rest really did pay off.  Now if only my arms and nose didn't match the colour of the lobster being pulled out of the bay, the day might just have been perfect.  I guess you can't quite have it all.  Though after enjoying a day cycling like that, pretty close.