Grand Manan Island

One destination I had really wanted to visit since moving to New Brunswick was Grand Manan Island.  It's a pretty decent sized island off the south coast, located in the Bay of Fundy.  It's got a bit of everything - craggy cliffs, lighthouses, rare birds, smooth pavement, incredibly friendly locals, fresh seafood from hidden harbours, and a certain air of mystery to the place.  It's completely off of most tourist's radars, which is a shame for them, but a bonus for those who do venture across on the 90 minute ferry ride.  

I cycled the island as a preview to our Fundy Isles tour, going tip-to-tip with a night of camping in between.  After my incredible sunburn the day before, the fog and mist that greeted me were a very welcome treat - I hoped for some good moisturizing action from the sea air.  But before getting too far into the island, I made a stop at the famed North Head bakery - it's amazing the quality of baguette available on this rocky island… and the cinnamon bun really hit the spot as well.  Despite the fog, drizzle, and headwind, the biking was still enjoyable as the road skirted the coastline.  (That's how you know you found a good cycling destination).  Each of the small fishing villages had a unique vibe to them - they seemed self-assured, with a look of clean prosperity.  

While drivers in New Brunswick seem to all be pretty respectful of cyclists, on Grand Manan they took it to new levels.  Slowing down completely, while passing in the opposite lane, waiting for the road to straighten before passing, and smiles and waves from nearly ever vehicle made me feel as if the entire island had been expecting my visit.  They say small fishing villages are where you meet the friendliest people, and it seemed to hold true.  I stopped in Seal Cove for a hot chocolate, and inside the small shop was only the owner.  He had a few tables and chairs set up by the windows, and the biggest cribbage board I've ever seen.  It was an entire table.  I poured my hot chocolate and started sipping, and he invited me to a game.  "Are you a gambler?" he asked.  Usually they play for $2 a game, but as my pockets were empty I decided to just play for fun.  As I rounded the final bend and he was 20 points behind me, I wished I had gone out to my bike to find a toonie.  I held on for the win, and he invited me back for a re-match the next time I passed through.  

After reaching the southern tip of the island, and then camping for the night at The Anchorage Provincial Park, I made my way back up to North Head, and visited the extremely photogenic Swallowtail Lighthouse, perched on a rocky outcropping.  I had really been hoping for some sun to capture the beautiful lighthouse, but even in the fog I couldn't stop snapping photos - it really was just so iconic 'Maritimes'.  Finally I put my camera away, and rode back to the ferry terminal.  From here it was just a short jaunt up past Blacks Harbour to the highway, and sunny skies led me the rest of the way back to St. Stephen.  

All in all, the Fundy Isles were a fantastic area to explore by bike.  Even on the days without great weather, the combination of classic Maritime scenery, considerate traffic on lightly travelled rural roads, and incredibly friendly people made for a great bike trip.  If anybody's interested in taking part in a supported, guided tour of the Fundy Isles, we'll be offering a tour this July, from the 22nd to 26th.  It's a five day camping tour, with an average length day of 50 km - great for novice cyclists.  And best of all, it's our most affordable tour, available for as low as $899 with Bicycles for Humanity fundraising, and $799 for students and teachers!  For more information, visit the Fundy Isles page on our website, or send us an email, at tours@maritimecycletours.com.